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I Love Italian Wine and Food - A 2007 Vino Novello

webm@mail.

By Levi Reiss Category: 0

Submit your Articles Here!

webm@mail.theworldwidewine.com.

Best regards

Levi Reiss
http://www.theworldwidewine.com

I Love Italian Wine and Food - A 2007 Vino Novello
It's been a long time since we have done anything with
Italian wines. Not that we don't love them. But we ran
through all twenty regions of Italy (not literally) and
reviewed at least one wine from each region with two
exceptions. Then we moved on to French and German wines.
There are scads of Italian wines to taste and review, but
that's for an undefined later. We now review a very timely
wine, a Vino Novello. Each year, starting in early
November, Italy releases Vino Novello, to the delight of
many, and to the eternal disappointment of many others.
Will you be delighted or disappointed with the 2007
offering? After reading this article, rush to your favorite
wine store and sample the wine. Whether you are delighted
or not, you probably will have fun. Traditionalists consume
roasted chestnuts and fresh figs with such wines.

New wines are produced by a special method, carbonic
maceration, in which whole grapes ferment in stainless
steel tanks, often reaching a temperature of 25 to 30
degrees Centigrade (77 to 86 degrees Fahrenheit). This
process lasts for about 5 to 20 days, and may be followed
by crushing the grapes, which then undergo traditional
fermentation for a few days. The exact procedure varies
from one winemaker to another, but the ensuing wine is
virtually tannin free. The lack of tannins implies a short
shelf life. While you don't have to drink the wine
immediately, most people finish the season by Easter. By
the way, according to the Italian winemakers, admittedly
not the most impartial of groups, the 2007 harvest was the
earliest and leanest wine harvest in thirty years. Is this
yet another proof of global warming?

New wines are usually colored bright red or violet. They
tend to be fruity, tasting of cherry, strawberry,
raspberry, banana, and freshly squeezed grapes, depending
on the grape variety used, the production method, and the
area in which the grapes are grown. Detractors talk about
bubble gum, lollipops, nail polish, and jello. Many feel
that new wine tastes of grape juice with alcohol. One thing
is certain, if you don't like a given new wine, don't store
it away to try it again in two years. It won't improve with
time.

Italy is a major producer of new wine, bringing to market
about 18 million bottles a year. About one third of its
output is exported to Germany. The most important Italian
new wine regions are Veneto and Tuscany, followed by
Piedmont and Trentino-Alto Adige. Let's take a closer look
at one new wine.

Wine Reviewed Novello del Veneto IGT 12% about $9.50

I bought this bottle in mid-November, shortly after its
release. The Novello del Veneto wine, with a designer
label, is made from Corvina and Rondinella grapes native to
the Veneto region in northeastern Italy. Interestingly
enough, the Corvina grape is quite tannic, but you would
never guess from tasting the final product. You may be
familiar with these two grape varieties; they are the major
components of Valpolicella and other well-known Veneto
wines. I'll spare you the gushing marketing materials that
purported to describe this wine.

I first tasted these wines with a slow-cooked beef stew
with potatoes and Romanian style smoky eggplant. The wine
was dark but thin. I tasted some tobacco and the
combination was quite pleasant but perhaps the meat's
spice, harissa a pungent North African condiment, was too
much for the wine. When I restrained myself and tasted the
wine with chunks of spiceless meat, the Novello del Veneto
was a bit more forceful.

The next pairing involved kubbe, alternate spelling kube,
mideastern ground rice balls with a beef stuffing in a
spicy tomato sauce. And they are excellent. The wine was
fruit forward, it didn't seem like a new wine. This is a
complement. The wine seemed to balance the pepper in the
tomato sauce. On the downside it was grapey.

The final meal was a broiled rib steak that was briefly
marinated in a ketchup, mustard, onion, and garlic sauce.
The wine was fruity, but frankly not up to the steak. Do I
taste bubble gum? As this description, the wine wasn't very
long.

My German Emmenthaler (Swiss-type) cheese is getting too
old and too hard. And yet the wine was moderately acidic
and fruity, with some black cherry. Perhaps its presence
was because the cheese has become rather tasteless. The
ammonia in the French goat cheese was too much for this
wine.

Final verdict. Faith tells me that one day there will be a
new wine that meets my not very rigorous standards. Reason
tells me that this will not happen; the rush to market
inevitably means inadequate processing of the grapes. In
this case reason triumphed and the wine did not. On the
other hand, what do you want for $9.50?

----------------------------------------------------
Levi Reiss has authored or co-authored ten books on
computers and the Internet, but he prefers drinking fine
Italian or other wine, accompanied by the right foods and
people. He knows about dieting but now eats and drinks what
he wants, in moderation. He teaches classes in computers at
an Ontario French-language community college. His new wine,
diet, health, and nutrition website
http://www.wineinyourdiet.com links to his other sites.

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